Ruta de Las Tres Cordilleras, Bolivia and Peru.

  • Distance

    493 Mi.

    (793 KM)
  • Days

    16

  • % Unpaved

    98%

  • % Singletrack

    15%

  • Difficulty (1-10)

    9

  • % Rideable (time)

    95%

  • Total Ascent

    57,735'

    (17,598 M)
  • High Point

    16,700'

    (5,090 M)
As the name suggests, the Ruta de las Tres Cordilleras is a ride that revolves around three mountain ranges - the Cordillera Real, the Cordillera Apolobamba and the Cordillera Vilcanota. It connects the mountain settlements of Sorata in Bolivia to Pitumarca in Peru, providing a beautiful and remote high elevation traverse between the two countries, via an unmanned border crossing and an assortment of Andean passes.
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Beginning in Sorata, in the Cordillera Real, the Ruta de las Tres Cordilleras picks its way along forgotten footpaths, old Incan trails, jeep tracks, and low traffic tertiary roads, linking together a string of tiny Bolivian villages en route to the Peruvian border. And what a border crossing it is; bereft of a control post, passing from one country to the next involves little more than fording a river and following singletrack across a treeless plateaux, to the backdrop of the mighty Apolobamba range.

Hopscotching from mining settlement to mining settlement, the Ruta passes just a stone’s throw from La Rinconada, the largest mine in the area and at 5100m, the highest settlement in the world. Then it’s time for more challenging singletrack and a hike a bike to Kuyo Kuyo, a petite spa town rich in tradition, evident in the extensive Incan farming terraces that mottle its hillsides, and its impressive stone dwellings that are still in use today. Past an expansive stone forest near Corani, the highest pass on the route still lies ahead. It’s tackled via a recently hewn dirt road that passes beneath the impressive Quelccaya Ice Cap, the largest glaciated area in the tropics, spanning an area of 44 square kilometres.

As impressive as the views are throughout, the journey just gets better and better, culminating with an almost complete, anti-clockwise loop around the stunning Ausangate massif (6384m), jewel of the Vilnacota range – part of which we’ve posted previously as the Ausangate Traverse.

For the most part, the Ruta de Las Tres Cordilleras follows dirt roads – some are well surfaced, others are cut roughly into the mountainside. The majority of the singletrack is concentrated at the beginning and end of the ride, though there are sections peppered throughout. It’s a tough journey, with considerable elevation gains each day. At the time of writing, there’s also a paperwork hurdle to negotiate. Given that the route links Bolivia and Peru via an unmanned border crossing, you’ll need to take a day off the saddle to negotiate visa formalities in Puno – see the Need to Know section for more details. Rest assured though. The hassle is worth the effort; doing so allows access to an area that is almost completely untravelled by anyone bar adventurous bikepackers!

The ride starts in Sorata and ends in Pitumarca. With a few extras days, you could easily extend it on either side to link the popular hubs of La Paz and Cusco. Check out Trail Notes for an idea of how to break up the trip.

The caveat: this route is the brainchild of Michael Dammer, Ecuadorian climber and bikepacker extraordinaire. If you’re familiar the Dammer Brothers, you’ll know their bold routes – like the Trans Ecuador Mountain Bike Ride (TEMBR) – are never less than challenging! As beautiful as it is, the Ruta de Las Tres Cordilleras is also a sobering insight into the destruction wreaked upon the earth by what appears to be largely unregulated mining. Perhaps it’s a good reminder to consume less and ride more…

Images by Cass Gilbert and Michael Dammer.

  • Highlights

  • Must Know

  • Camping

  • Food/H2O

    💧

  • Trail Notes

  • Truly remote riding across a region of Bolivia and Peru that sees almost zero tourists.
  • An almost complete loop of Ausangate, one of the bikepacking jewels of Peru.
  • A chance to see a vast complex of working terraced fields and stone structures, just as the Incans built them.
  • Great views of Quelccaya Ice Cap, the largest glaciated area in the tropics.
  • A very low traffic dirt road route with bouts of challenging singletrack – there’s only 40km of pavement in total.
  • Here’s how to negotiate the visa shuffle and keep things legal. If coming from Bolivia, you can either visit the immigration office in La Paz and convince them to give you an exit stamp in your passport, as we did (post dated by 5 days), or drop down to the Bolivian border post at Puerto Acosta (potentially easier, especially if you make use of the many minibuses and shared taxis that ply this route). Upon reaching Ananea, leave bikes at one of the guesthouses in town and bus to Puno to procure your entry visa to Peru. There are regular direct minibuses to Juliaca (20 Sol, 3.5 hours), from where you can hop on a quick shuttle to Puno itself (30 mins, 3.5 Sol). We used the journey as a chance to rest, spending a night in Puno to enjoy some fine dining, before returning to our bikes the next day. Resupply at the same time – the market is vast and has everything. If coming from the other direction, you’ll need to bus to Puno for your exit visa. Then, to save rushing to La Paz for your entry stamp, your best bet is to drop down to Puerto Acosta once you’ve crossed the border, which is just a short bus/shared taxi ride away from the route – see map. It’s possible plans for a Peruvian border post on the northern side of Lago Titicaca will come to fruition, in which case the visa shuffle will be greatly simplified. Check locally for updates – and let us know if the situation changes!
  • Note too that riders heading from Bolivia to Peru may want to find a reroute along the Kuyo Kuyo to Ananea segment, which will involve a challenging hike a bike when heading east. It’s certainly doable, but it’s tough.
  • If riding from Cusco, we’d still be tempted to ride Ausangate anti-clockwise. Let us know if you decide otherwise!
  • If you’d like to visit the fabled Rainbow Valley en route to Pitumarca, Brian Mulder has these notes from his recent trip there: (1) From marked km 27 in Hanchipachi walk across the soccer field and you’ll see the trail leading up along the north edge of the valley. You’ll come around a corner and see a small pueblo in the valley to the left.  Walk straight across towards a stone pen on the opposite edge of the valley. This serves as the 10 Sol payment point and where you’ll pick up the main tourist trail.(2) The more frequented tourist trailhead is about 10 km up the road from Hanchipachi. Rather than continuing around the hairpin turn to Chillca, take a left and roughly 2km up the road you’ll see where all the tourist white mini vans are parked.  The trail is very well marked from here.
  • Pack light. Although hike-a-bikes are relatively short, the Ruta de Las Tres Cordilleras is not a ride suited to a traditional 4 pannier setup, unless you trim off the sections out of Sorata and the loop around the Ausangate. Even then, it would be a tough ride.
  • With time to spare, this route would make a fantastic compliment to the epic Peru Divide.
  • Citizens of most countries can travel through Bolivia and Peru with visas procured at the relevant border. US citizens need to apply for a Bolivian visa in advance; expect to be stung for $135.
  • Minibuses to Sorata leave from near La Paz’ cemetery. The journey takes a couple of hours. Bikes can be tied to the roof.  The cost is 13 Bolivianos, along with whatever you negotiate for your steed.
  • This is a high elevation journey. Allow at least a few days to acclimatise if flying in from a low lying region. Drink lots of water and it take it easy when you arrive in La Paz or Cusco.
  • Plan on 20 days for the ride, allowing time for visa logistics and some downtime.
  • Bikes: Michael rode his Salsa El Mariachi with front suspension and 2.4 Maxxis Ardents. I rode my Tumbleweed Prospector with a rigid fork and 3in Maxxis Chronicle tires. Both setups worked well.
  • This route is best tackled in the dry season, between April and early September.
  • There have been some reports of thefts in the area around Ausangate. So make sure you’re belongings are stowed in your tent when sleeping, and your bikes secured. Other than that, we didn’t feel or notice any security issues. People are extremely kind, curious and welcoming.
  • This rides abounds in good camping opportunities.
  • Larger settlements have basic lodging; don’t expect luxuries like wifi though.
  • Expect to find basic stores in almost every settlement for on-the-go resupplies. Many stores will be able to rustle up a ‘caldo’, a hearty mountain soup. We also requested boiled potatoes to add to our picnics. Larger villages and towns will have restaurants too; the set menu is the way to go. We camped out on quinoa soups loaded with vegetables we’d already dehydrated. Lunches were often bread and cheese we picked up en route (with salami we bought in La Paz), resupplying on basics like porridge oats as we went.
  • Water is never an issue; just be aware that the ground water around mines can be contaminated. Two bottles of water should be plenty to carry during the day. Pack a filter too.

Here are the trail notes we took during our intial route finding ride in April 2016. Be sure to take into account the altitude, trail conditions and the vagaries of mountain weather.

La Ruta de las Tres Cordilleras

Day 1

From/To: Sorata (2680m) to Sorejaya woodpile (3520m)
Distance: 36km
Climbing: 1611m
Cumulative climbing: 1611m
Notes: Chejje, Huaycho (school children), river crossing, abandoned road climb, Cuchipata, pre-Incan corridors, traverse to Sorejaya (could have taken road to Combaya and crossed there, but no bridge).
Range: Cordillera Real

Day 2

From/To: Sorejaya (3520m) to Lake Campsite tucked behind road (4330m)
Distance: 47km
Climbing: 1939m
Notes: Steep morning climb and coffee with lady, trail at second river, to semi abandoned road where we fixed BB again with tape, up to lake, then descent into valley where we met Arnaldo, continued down, potatoes and dried alpaca, then dirt road climb to pass, then down valley to junction – big bread and beer – then dirt road towards Timusi. Ignored fork, then lake camp.
Range: Cordillera Real

Day 3

From/To: Lake campsite (3520m) to Tarajani (3828m)
Distance: 68km
Climbing: 828m
Cumulative climbing: 4378m
Notes: Left camp, Poblacion Chuani, left turn, down to river, then back up – views of Illampu – and fast descent to Tarajani
Range: Cordillera Real

Day 4

From/To: Tajani to Vila Cala (4244m) to Peruvian border (4310m)
Distance: 74km
Climbing: 1697m
Cumulative climbing: 6075m
Notes: From Vila Cala, misty and rainy, climbed up, strange light, Pumasani – apacheta – long slow section, little singletracks, abandoned towns with motorbike riders following us, crossed river to Peruvan village. Slept in medical room on floor.
Range: Crossed Munecas – secondary range. Views of Apolobamba.

Day 5

From/To: Peruvian border (4310m) to Viluyo, riverside camp past mine (4551m)
Distance: 69km
Climbing: 926m
Cumulative climbing: 7001m
Notes: Trails across pampa, avoiding Ulla Ulla and main dirt road road, then dropped down, took fork to right, good views of Apolobamba, towards Suches Alto, through mine complex, bought water there, it rained, and we camped by river.
Range: Cordillera Apolobamba

Day 6

From/To: Viluyo, riverside camp past mine (4551m) to Ananea (4700m)
Distance: 24km (half day)
Climbing: 497m
Cumulative climbing: 7498m
Afternoon bus to Juliaca (20 Sol, 3.5 hours) then microbus to Puno (3.5 Sol, 30 mins)
Notes: Climbed a few hundred metres, views of Rinconada (and at night) plus Cerro Ananea (highest in Apolobamba), then descent/traverse to Ananea. Left bikes in cafe yard.
Range: Cordillera Apolobamba

Day 7

Visa paperwork in the morning, rest, then afternoon bus back to Ananea , snow.

Day 8

From/To: Ananea to Patambuco (3508m)
Distance: 75km
Climbing: 1450m
Cumulative climbing: 8945m
Notes: Morning circled back round, then turned off dirt road, followed singletrack along old water canal, then descent to mine, shouted at, scramble across, rocky singletrack descent, into inca road to Kuyo Kuyo (town with rock houses and spring and terraces). Paved climbed 12km, turned off onto loose rocky mtb climb, crested pass and back down to Patambuco – punctures. Arrived late, slept in shared room, invited to tea and tools.
Range: Cordillera Carabaya (subrange)

Day 9

From/To: Patambuco (3508m) to Huasacorral waterfall camp spot (4331m)
Distance: 58km
Climbing: 1745m
Cumulative climbing: 10690m
Notes: Climbed back out valley, long climb, then descent to small settlement where we stopped for lunch – then shortly after, turned off to right on old road to climb to reservoir. Then instead of dropping to Centro Poblado, singletrack across valley, heading towards Valle Hermoso, climbed up to pass, and misty descent on other side with waterfall campsite.
Range: Cordillera Carabaya (subrange)

Day 10

From/To: Huasacorral waterfall campsite (4311m) to lake below pass campsite (4676m)
Distance: 594.5km/42km
Climbing: 1612m
Cumulative climbing: 12302m
Notes: Dropped down to Oscoroche (left hand turn, after talking to family). Breakfast, then continued down valley. Dead end at Tiobamba – trail across valley. Back up. Rain, potatoes with mum and child. Then up pass, turned down a lift, got to the top, camped on the other side.
Range: Cordillera Carabaya (subrange)

Day 11

From/To: Lake below pass campsite (4676m) to Macusani (4303m)
Distance: 688km 93km
Climbing: 833m
Cumulative climbing: 13135m
Notes: Dropped down in morning to Crucero. Then ciclovia trails with alpaca, then corrugated road to paved road, demonstration in village. Lunch outside school, negotiations to get out due to demonstration! Then dirt road to Macusani – overcast. Turned right, views of Allin Capaq, late afternoon light.
Range: Cordillera Carabaya (subrange) – Allin Capaq is the biggest mountain in range.

Day 12

From/To: Macusani (4303m) to camping before Aymana campsite (4100m)
Distance: 742km 54km
Climbing: 905m
Cumulative climbing: 14040m
Notes: Paved for 25km to bridge turnoff, misty climb to Organic Potato Capital, then descent to Corani through stone forest and Aymana camp.
Range: Macusani River forms border with Cordillera Vilcanota.

Day 13

From/To: Aymana campsite (4100m) camping to Sivina Cocha (4880m)
Distance: 805km 63km
Climbing: 1620m|
Cumulative climbing: 15660m
Notes: Amazing breakfast for 10 sol – soup and snacks – climbed up on new jeep road to highest point. Then road deteriorated, stayed on right side of valley. Views of Ice Cap, long traverse to Phinaya. Trucha for lunch, and up to lake Sibina Cocha to camp.
Range: Cordillera Vilcanota

Day 14

From/To: Sibina Cocha to Ausangate Camp 1 (4850m)
Distance: 874km 69km
Climbing: 1400m
Cumulative climbing: 17056m
Notes: Cold morning, then loop round – ignored potential shortcut to pass (worth investigating) – instead took old, fun road via Marcapata to right, and intersected. Up to Abra Jahuaycate (5070m), then descent on resurfaced dirt road to intersection. Lunch by river, then began climb, grassy, steep but rideable terrain to Kampa Pass (5100m). Descent to campsite.
Range: Cordillera Vilcanota

Day 15

From/To: Ausangate camp 1 (4850m) to Ausangate Camp 2 behind house (4570m)
Distance: 906km 32km
Climbing: 990m
Cumulative climbing: 18042m
Range: Cordillera Vilcanota

Day 16

From/To: Ausangate Camp 2 (4570m) to Acomayo (3220m)
Distance: 996km 90km
Climbing: 833m
Cumulative climbing: 18875m
Range: Cordillera Vilcanota

Notes: The route and gpx file end in Pitmarca, where you can find a place to stay, a market, various eateries, and regular buses to Cusco. We pushed on Acomayo – a very picturesque town – and rode back to Cusco.

(Extra Day 17)

From/To: Acomayo (3220m) to Cusco (3300m)
Distance: 110km
Climbing: 2465m
Cumulative climbing: 21340m
Notes: Backroads, mainly paved. Dirt for the last segment into La Paz. Acomayo— Rondocan (don’t go to Papres at the fork after Corma, stay up high on the right hand road)—San Juan de Quihuares (dirt begins)— After San Juan, take a left up high close to the pass and follow dirt road to Puna Cancha and eventually Cusco

Additional Resources

  • Brian Mulder rode a sizeable portion of the route; check out his words, pics and notes here.
  • A more extensive gallery of Michael’s images can be found here.

  • swbackcountry

    Great Route Cass! Glad to see the whole thing up here. By the way, while on my Quelccaya loop, I met a friend/touring partner of yours, Peter, from Tasmania. He was heading south from Phinaya, while I had just dropped north down Chimboya Pass. For anyone contemplating riding this area, I can’t emphasize enough how cool having this .gpx will be as a foundation. As noted, there are few tourists in this area, and speaking Spanish is a good skill.

  • Cass Gilbert

    Could that have been Peter, who I met in Pakistan, like, 17 years ago??! If so, he was the one who talked me into heading to Kyrgyzstan, which went on to become one of my all time favourite countries!

  • swbackcountry

    He DID say you guys met in Pakistan. Kyrgyzstan sounds great.

  • Brian Mulder

    Awesome to see this formalized, Cass. This is a fantastic route and makes for a great combo with the Peru Divide.

  • https://poweredbyadobo.wordpress.com Dean Cunanan

    Brian and I are just emailing back and forth about the route. Good timing Cass.

  • http://eltaraumara.blogspot.com/ El_Taraumara

    Thanks for organising and sharing the information compadre Cass. Great images and decription of an epic ride.

  • Kat Hardt-Holoch

    Wonderful photos, really amazing. All I can say is Wow!

  • http://thegradedroad.com/ Ryan Wilson

    Thanks for sharing this! Love the photos. Can’t wait to get down there and check this route out first hand!

  • http://pedalspacksandpinots.wordpress.com/ Ben Handrich

    Another absolutely incredible route-build Cass; with untraveled roads, river fording border crossings, unrivaled images (as always), this was a great morning read with coffee in hand. It brought me back to the ‘While Out Riding’ days when I eagerly anticipated each new entry of yours. Thanks for the inspiration.

  • Cass Gilbert

    Thank you Ryan, I hope you enjoy it. I look forward to seeing the results!

  • Cass Gilbert

    Until the next adventure, pana!

  • Cass Gilbert

    Cheers for the kind words, Ben. I’m glad you enjoyed it.

  • DamagedSurfer

    Wow Cass, thanks for sharing! The photos are awesome!

  • Μεσότης

    B e a u t i f u l !

  • http://www.sebastiennunes.com sebnunes

    WOW!

  • Brian Sullivan

    Planning on doing this route October-November. How do you think the weather will be then?

  • Cass Gilbert

    Traditionally, this might be a little late. But the beginning of the rainy season has been increasingly hard to predict. So you could be fine. Generally speaking, the earlier the better.

  • Brian Sullivan

    I thought Oct-Nov would be mid to late spring? That’s the rainy season?

  • Cass Gilbert

    The rainy season in Peru typically starts from late Oct/Nov and can run until April or so. But as I say, it’s the shoulder season so it’s hard to know for sure. You could be just fine.